This Is How You Can Appraise Your Silverware

How Do You Appraise Silverware?

Many families have real silverware as a gift in the past, or more recently, and want to know its worth. Older pieces have gained high popularity as collectibles and are therefore much higher than the precious metals they carry.

How do you appraise silverware? Silverware is appraised through the quality of the material, hallmarks, and silver weight. In the PACA regions, they allow you to have a fix on the value of the item. The smoother the artistry, the higher value it will have.

Not sure if your silverware is of any value? I will tell you more about it in this article. Know if it has any value and how you can determine the estimated appraisal of such majestic ware.

Know If Your Silverware Has Value

Crystal can often look like a diamond, but it is not the same as a diamond-and the same concept applies to sterling silver.

So if you are assessing your current possession, it is worth deciding if your silverware is made of genuine sterling silver.

Note that some flatware is silver-plated or just plain old stainless steel.

The inspection of the metal content of silver flatware is vital to the assessment of its worth.

It can be hard to say whether silver flatware is actually silver for a variety of reasons. Many manufacturers are offering silver plated flatware.

Silverplate has a thin layer of silver. It produces the look of sterling silver and is popular as a cheap substitute. Still, more flatware is made of stainless steel fashioned to look like silver.

Only to make matters more complex, true silver flatware is typically sterling, not pure silver.

Pure silver is soft and will not stand in a heavy application. Sterling is a 92.5 percent silver alloy plus another metal, usually copper, strong and robust. When people say “real” silver flatware, they mean sterling silver.

Silver-Plated Flatware

Popular stands for sterling silverware are usually made of stainless steel. It has a thin coating of silver, chrome, or nickel.

It gives the appearance of pure sterling silver but with higher resistance to corrosion, rust, and tarnish. It is beautiful and looks genuine, too.

Plated flatware is more economical than real sterling silverware cutlery, but it also looks surprisingly pure.

Determining Real Silver

Here is how to know whether it is real silverware or anything like that. You will need a smooth cloth and a magnifying glass for this.

  1. Buff a piece of flatware with a fluffy fabric on it. As real silver is exposed to air, a thin layer of oxide is formed. Rubbing or buffing removes some of the oxides, leaving a black mark on the cloth.

    Stainless steel leaves no mark on it. Silverplate is applied to the meal below and would usually not leave a trace either.

  2. Scan the surface of the object, in particular the handle where it is gripped when used. Silverplate will eventually chip or wear, leaving the underlying metal exposed.

  3. Look for a trademark – also called a fineness or quality mark. True silver items are almost often imprinted with a mark or number representing the silver value – for example, “Ster” for sterling or “.925”. Hallmarks may be extremely small, so it helps to make the magnifying glass handy to find and read them.

When You’re Feeling Lazy

You don’t need fancy silver-cleaning solutions. Mix three-part baking soda paste into one-part water, then scrub, rinse, and dry buff.

Still Unsure?

Have a jeweler test the flatware. The standard test places a tiny drop of nitric acid at an inconspicuous spot on the authenticated item.

If the item is genuine silver, the nitric acid will leave a green mark. It’s not a smart idea to run this test on your own.

Jewelers have the equipment and experience to conduct this test without compromising or reducing the flatware’s integrity.

Finding The Value Of Your Silverware

During the old and golden days, silverware was the sought-out flatware given to newlyweds.

Lots of people today cannot identify whether antique flatwares have value or not.

Sterling Silver Or Silverplate

Valuable Antique Silverware is available in two styles. Silver and Sterling silver plates. They’re pretty easy to recognize.

Silver Plated silverware is made of base metal and is then coated with silver.

This silver coating gives it a stunning look but costs a lot less than Sterling silver. Silverplate feels lighter in weight than

Sterling silver is quickly recognized by the word “Sterling” stamped on the piece. That means that it is pure silver or.924 silver with the addition of.075 copper.

Both Sterling silver produced in the United States after 1850 has “Sterling” or “.925” or “925/1000” stamped on it.

If the object is ancient, it does not have a logo. You can’t tell whether it’s made of Sterling silver without a competent chemistry inspection.

Antique Silverware Value

Silverware is a term used to describe knives, forks, and spoons that are otherwise regarded as cutlery.

It is also called silverware, whether it is made of silver, covered with silver, or it looks like silver.

Valuable vintage silverware is either made from or painted with genuine silver. 

Sterling silver has an innate significance as a precious metal. Collecting antique silver pieces may be much more expensive than their silver content would suggest.

This added value depends on the craftsmanship, the manufacturer, and the desirability of the piece available for sale.

The location where the object is sold can also affect the value. With more ancient silverware discarded for their scrap value, the price of the pieces that remain will continue to increase.

Is It Valuable?

If the design and quality are outstanding, silverplate can have a modest resale value. Its meaning derives from the beauty of the piece. It’s not going to have enough silver in it to be worth much for the silver itself.

Sterling silver may also be more expensive when the content of silver has a scrap value.

Also, the silverware’s age, style, and attractiveness can mean that it’s worth much exceeds the scrap value.

Hallmarks, Manufacturer, And Pattern

After cleaning, scan the silverware for stamps and hallmarks. You can use an online guide to search the trademark to identify the manufacturer and the pattern. You will start to define the worth of the object with this information.

Place the info on a Google search to find related products for sale. Alternatively, search the item for a replacement site. There are also written pricing guides available for buying.

Take A Good Care Of Your Silverware

If you’ve finally discovered a secret family treasure, take meticulous care of it.

Now, the better it seems, the higher the worth will be. Nobody would buy stuff that was smashed into pieces, not even though it was antique.

The standard corrosion agent seen on silver is dark brown, black, or sometimes purple-blue usually referred to as tarnish.

This corrosion substance is not passive. That is, the appearance of tarnish does not interrupt the phase of corrosion from starting below.

Corrosion happens in the presence of contaminants such as acids found on fingerprints.

It can cause pits to develop beneath the surface layer of tarnish. These will not be clear until the surface is washed.

Silver is especially vulnerable to sulfide-initiated corrosion-if you dip a silver spoon in egg yolk. It will bleach almost instantly.

That’s why horn spoons were sometimes used to eat boiled eggs.

Polishing Silver

The rule is to play it softly. Consider the overall look of the piece when you scrub it.

In certain instances, such as pieces with relief decoration, removing any tarnish will make a piece appear lifeless. You don’t expect the surface to be spotless.

Move back at frequent intervals to look at the object as a whole. You may want to leave some tarnish behind to identify the design creatively.

  1. Swab surface with methylated or white spirit to cut grease and dirt. Some tarnish may also drop.

  2. Cut out a small rectangle, make a cotton wool swab, and tie the silver cloth around the swab. Use the swab to force the silver cloth into small places.

    It could be beneficial to moisten a silver cloth with a methylated spirit. After using a silver rag, rub the region with a swab moistened with alcohol to remove the stain.

  3. If tarnish does not get removed, try a mild abrasive coating, cream, or foam. Create a swab, moisten with purified water and take up a little of the cleaning liquid. When the swab turns black, swap it to a different one.

    Gently rub over the tarnished region in a circular motion. Remove the remains of silver foam with a swab moistened with purified water. Residues can be difficult to eliminate, and you can need to replicate the process.

  4. Swab gently with methylated spirits. If the item is on show, you might want to carefully brush it over with a smooth, dry silver cloth that contains a tarnish deterrent or use a coating.

Silver dips can seem like a simple alternative to polishing. However, the corrosion materials are eliminated by chemical intervention and appear to be over-clean. They remove all rust, which can make the surface appear ‘lifeless.

It can be difficult to extract residues, and you need to stop immersing items in water. If there is a lead solder fix on your piece, the silver dip will turn it dark.

Remember, you cannot brush all kinds of silver. Know the object before you start, for these finishes are easily destroyed.

Silver may also be purposefully oxidized – the dark surface is chemically formed on the surface.

This was especially common as a finish in the 19th century, but it is very uncommon to survive intact. It can easily be polished by over-zealous washing.


Silver-gilt wears the silver logo. Silver tarnish may grow on the gilded surface by minute gaps in the surface.

You can wash it in the same manner as silver. But be very careful since the gilded layers are thin, comparatively soft, and quickly polishes.

The Most Expensive Silverware

Germain Soup Tureen $10 million

Handcrafted by professional silversmith and craftsman Thomas Germain, it was custom-made for Louis XV himself.

The exceedingly rare tureen is one of the few silver items of its kind to survive. Most of which have been melted to fund the French Revolution and other such wars.

Its lid is considered a remarkable piece of art, containing expertly carved fish, fowl, and vegetables.

The best match for a royal dinner. It was sold at the Sotheby auction in New York for $10 million in 1996.

George II Silver Coffee Pot $7 million

George II Silver Coffee Pot $7 million is the most beautiful Rococo silverware sold by Christie’s London auction house in 2013.

It was almost $7 million, making it the most expensive piece of British silverware ever sold.

Just over 10 inches tall, the miniature coffee pot was displayed at the Metropolitan Museum in New York.

It was handcrafted by talented British silversmith Paul de Lamerie 1688-1751 in 1738.

The coffee pot was commissioned by John Lequesne, a London-based merchant, and Huguenot, who became the Bank of England’s treasurer.

King George II then knighted it in 1737. Crafted in the French Rococo style, it is also the most costly coffee pot in the world.

Antique American Punch Silver Bowl $5.9 million

Sold by Sotheby’s in 2010, this Antique Silver Bowl won a stunning $5.9 million bid. The selling price was far more than the original estimate of between $400,000 and $800,000.

This set a world mark for American silverware, far above the previous record holder.

It was handcrafted by the silversmith Cornelius Kierstede between 1700 and 1710 in New York.

Later owned by Commodore Joshua Loring in his stately home in Massachusetts, the Loring-Greenough House, now a historic site.

It weighs more than 4.4 pounds and is the first silverware of its kind to reach the $1 million bid.


There is no alternative for a professional appraisal. Have things that you suspect are vintage silverware, verified.

Do not mistake a valuation with a buying bid. If a dealer offers you a quote, they are going to bargain, so be skeptical.

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